Kerrin Gale’s Current Training Schedule: Behind the Scenes
General Training Routine
Can you describe a typical week of training for you?
I started climbing quite late (like early 30s) and training even later so I don't have the capacity or training ages that others have but to be honest I don’t train much. We don’t really have a typical week as we are on an endless climbing road trip and mostly climb outside up to 4 days a week. I do some supplementary “training”, if you like, mostly trying to stay injury free and robust, aiming more to maintain what I have rather than gain anything. We do 2 training focused periods a year. 1 in summer and 1 over christmas in order to try and build a bit more strength and power. These periods usually last 4 - 6 weeks. I have no idea what the reality is that these short periods actually build much but they seem to at least allow me to maintain and eek out the top end of what we have already.
How many days a week do you train?
During a climbing phase I’ll train on my climbing days so either 1 on 1 off or 2 on or 1 off. During a training phase I work on a 3 day cycle.
How do you structure your training sessions throughout the week?
During a climbing phase. Day 1 - I will always do some hard/heavy hangs or pulls as part of my warm up. No, 50 seconds of all out effort does not affect my climbing day. Day 2 - At the end of the day I usually do some larger muscle stuff.
During a training phase. Day one is always finger intensive. So any bouldering or fingerboarding I plan to do. With Day 2 more bigger muscles action like heavy weights, some super easy endurance and maybe no hangs.
What are your primary goals for your training block?
Because we spend so much time on rock, training blocks always have a focus on robustness, strength (specifically fingers), power, movement, try hard - in that order.
A lot of my training is about not breaking or getting injured. The main thing that stops a person from climbing is injury so if I can stay injury free then that is better than any minor finger strength gain. Building more robust and stronger fingers specifically and general body strength. Movement, technique specifically using my feet more and finding positions that allows me to do hard moves.
Specific Workouts
What types of exercises or workouts do you include in your training?
During a climbing phase. Day 1 - Max hangs / pulls. I will do one or two grip types, up to 5 repetitions each, for a max of 10 seconds. I mix these up every four to six weeks. For example I might use the tindeq to do a max credit 3 sec pulls in a strict half crimp. Or I might take 80% of my max and try to hold it for 10 secs. I find these incredibly helpful as otherwise I don’t do any other fingerboarding and often we climb in big caves on jugs so these help to maintain the ability to full crimp when I need to.
Day 2 - At the end of the day I’ll do some trx exercises, some max chins or lock offs.
I also always try to do at least 9 pull ups and 15 push ups for my warm up on both days. I vary these between slow and full range of motion, to using a band to make them fast. This might sound like a waste of energy but if I am at the crag all the time it’s easy to just tick away at my nice static project and never go through a full range pull up, or forget to do any antagonistic training, or simply climb so statically that my body forgets what speed is! Also, not that many women in their 40s can do a pull up off the couch and with the onset of perimenopause my body is starting to decrease estrogen levels and my ability to protein synthesis to create muscles is decreasing. Basically, it is getting harder and harder for me to gain muscle / strength. Not impossible but simply harder and so maintaining what I have is extremely important to me.
During a training phase. Hard boulders are key for me. Not hard like, I can do in a session. Hard like I can barely do a move. I usually ladder my boulder sessions though working my way up to trying 3 -5 super hard boulders. Low set/rep heavy weights (four main movements pull, push, hinge, squat). Mobility & stretching.
Do you focus on different aspects (e.g., strength, endurance, technique) on different days?
Yes. Day 1 is always high end stuff. So finger strength, trying hard and technique. Day 2 is bigger muscles (heavy chins, deadlifts) and endurance.
How do you warm up before your training sessions?
Like a diesel engine - very very slowly and methodically. I usually start with no hangs on a board. I literally dry retch when I see some young punk walks straight up to a beast maker, grab one of those ‘mingin edges, wrap a full crimp and bust out a few fast chins. I do lots of finger rolls (like rolling between an open 3 and full crimp) slowly increasing how much force I am putting through my fingers and speed of roll. I always warm up all my grip types, full crimp, monos etc (? not sure what you call these) as no hangs. In part, again, because I don’t do much fingerboarding this helps keeps all the grip types feeling current. I’ll work up to a few hangs at body weight. A bunch of pushes and pulls at various speeds. Some mobility work, just trying to warm my hips, knees, back, arms into full ranges of motion. Then usually some easy laps or boulders to get a slight pump with a strong focus on movements e.g. trying to get into deep drop knees, use heels etc. If I am climbing on a board I’ll grab a bunch of the board holds with my feet still on the ground just to get my fingers used to those holds. I finish with a few static holds in hard positions trying to warm up the try hard and engage my feet.
What cool-down routines do you follow after your workouts?
Probably an area I can work on but last thing is usually a stretch or no hangs.
Do you have goals for your training workouts?
For individual workouts no, but I definitely focus on if and how they are helping me climb harder outside.
Time Management
How long does each training session typically last?
I usually go by feel. Some days it takes a long time to warm up. Some days I feel great so I push the session. I very rarely try to last a certain amount of time or do a certain amount of boulders unless during super low level endurance and then I go for time. Normally on boulders I listen to my body and once I start flailing I call it quits.
Do you have a specific time of day when you prefer to train?
I prefer mornings and then I can sit on my laurels for the rest of the day.
Variation and Progression
How do you ensure variety in your training to avoid plateaus?
I think because I train for such short periods with long breaks in between it is easy to continue to see gains. I can imagine that if you train more than you climb then seeing improvement could be hard. I give myself a grace period if starting back into training or starting a new exercise, call me cautious but I need to feel comfortable with a movement before I can try hard. This is the same for me in climbing, I need to know the movement before I can lay it on. So I usually start light with more reps then progress either heavier or more reps and sets. This means almost every workout I can improve in some way and that helps with motivation.
If I feel like I have plateaued in a particular exercise at a certain weight I’d try for longer duration or more reps or sets. Or totally swap the exercise and train a weakness for a while.
How do you track your progress and make adjustments to your training routine?
I track everything I do using Sequence but to be honest most of it stays in my brain. I don’t remember exactly what sets and reps I did last session but I can tell you roughly what I did last year and therefore what would represent an improvement this year.
To be honest most of the time I do a very similar thing just mixing up intensity and volume.If I feel like I have a particular weakness or if there is a route with a certain hold type then I will ensure I mix my training up to include that.
Do you make adjustments depending on where you are in your cycle?
I try not to but sometimes I have to. I generally go hard all the time. But I know that my hard when I am ovulating will look and feel very different to when I am in my power phase. I have around a 20 percent difference in power, strength and coordination between the two end phases of my cycle and then I peddle somewhere in between the rest of the time. This simply means that my progress is never linear and this occurs on routes as well. It means that yesterday I could do this move and add 10 kgs to my fingerboard and today I can’t and everything hurts. It is important for me to know that I don’t suck, nor am I going backwards. It just means it’s time to show up and build consistency and not worry about performance. On the flip side of this is I get an equal amount of time in my power phase - well, less regularly now as I hit perimenopause but such is life. This phase is when I feel 20% stronger, I will go up in weight, send that route, do that move. Sometimes it is hard to not wait for this time to try to send or hit big numbers because I know it’s my best chance but I also know that I wait for this time there 22 other days in my cycle that I am just wasting.
Do you incorporate any periodization or specific cycles in your training plan?
Both during climbing and training phases I guess I periodize between days. Day 1 will always be a project, so hard moves and boulders. Day 2 will be more endurance, usually easier routes and more volume.
Recovery and Rest
How do you incorporate rest and recovery into your weekly schedule?
I take lots of rest days which involve doing nothing physical, maybe an easy walk or some light stretching. One of the things I notice as I get older is that my max isn’t decreasing but my volume sure is and how long it takes me to bounce back after a session. At the end of the day I’d prefer to be able to gain max strength for one rep or attempt than moderate strength for ten and I know to do that I need to be recovered.
Do you have any specific recovery techniques or routines you follow?
I always make sure I have a protein hit when I finish training and get plenty of sleep. If there is an option for a siesta sign me up!
Nutrition and Hydration
How do you manage your nutrition and hydration around your training sessions?
I eat a lot of carbs while training. I want my body to have the energy to work hard. So I’ll make sure I eat before, during (if long session) and immediately after.
Do you follow a specific diet or nutritional plan to support your training?
Not really, I aim for 2ish grams per body weight of protein and then eat when I am hungry. I have always eaten a lot of carbs as I grew up doing a lot of running and my body feels good on carbs so it’s my go to.
Does your nutrition change during your cycle?
I definitely up my carb intake in certain parts of my cycle. I don’t track this as my body tells me when this is. I simply crave carbs. It’s my body telling me I need more. There isn’t a lot of research as to why this is. Some argue it’s hormone driven, others that the blood barrier around the brain gets thicker and thus requires more energy. Who knows but either way, I feel better when I listen to my body.
Challenges and Adaptations
What challenges have you faced in your training, and how have you overcome them?
I don’t really feel I have had any serious challenges. If anything it is forcing myself to step away from the rock and do some training. Although in a Spanish summer that isn’t exactly hard.
How do you adapt your training routine when faced with injuries or other setbacks?
Rule number 1. Don’t get injured.
Going through perimenopause
This is probably going to have the biggest effect on my climbing and training going forwards. I imagine like anything it is going to involve a lot of acceptance, adaptability and just keep showing up with the long game in mind.
Mental and Emotional Aspects
How do you stay motivated and mentally focused throughout the week?
We actually get asked this a lot when we are climbing. The answer is I honestly don't know. I just want to go climbing all the time. Not only do I want to climb, I want to improve. I have goals and I know I have to put in the effort to achieve those goals. So when I (Doug) create a training plan then I just show up and follow the plan because I know that's part of what will get me to my goals. It also helps having someone who shares this sentiment and helps to keep you accountable when you feel tired or have slept badly. But at the end of the day the only person you are cheating by not showing up is yourself and so some days I wonder if it comes down to self - respect as well.
I think part of my motivation comes from just enjoying climbing. I don’t get overly frustrated if I have a bad day or if I find a route really hard. I do wonder sometimes if motivation is linked to perseverance and a willingness to be uncomfortable and I also wonder if I can tell the difference between those. Maybe other people can’t either and so when they ask how I stay motivated they actually mean how do I persevere? I don’t know, I am just rambling.
Do you incorporate any mental training or mindfulness practices into your routine?
A lot. It’s my job and it’d be pretty poor form to not practice what I preach but also because it has probably been the thing that has not only improved my climbing the most but also increased my enjoyment of it. And if I enjoy it and improve I am more likely to do it more and therefore achieve my goals. Three things I have worked on a lot over the last year are being curious, always finding the wins to make it a great day and being uncomfortable. Note, like anything training or practice, the mental side is no different. It‘s about showing up and getting the reps in consistently over time.
These three interplay quite a lot and are hard to split out individually but in the current training phase these concepts look like the following;
Being curious; why can’t I do that move? It’s so easy on a moonboard to not do a move first go, to get frustrated and simply swipe right. But frustration is a sure way to ensure I have a bad session and stop my learning dead in its tracks. This is about being OK with failure and being uncomfortable. So I take a step back and I remind myself that training is practice and is where I learn how to rock climb. If I can’t do a move then I am doing the training right. While my ego disagrees It doesn’t matter if that move is on a V3 or V7. So I try to be curious - why can’t I do the move? Is it a movement issue, flexibility, can I not generate, am I not holding the hold correctly. Maybe this is in part being mindful as well. But I find it so much more rewarding when I finally unlock a move that I couldn’t do then when I flash another V5 that taught me nothing.
Finding the wins; it blows my mind how many people say they have a bad day at the crag or training session. This is something we are choosing to do for fun!! Yet we get so caught up in a single objective it turns us into cranky old cats. I spend a lot of time focusing on what went well. I very rarely have a bad day at the crag or training session. Even when conditions are rubbish, I get injured (don’t get me wrong this sucks and I have been known to have a little sulk!), I fall even lower or I get my ass handed to me. What went right?? So at the moment; Did I feel more comfortable on that heinous black pinch on the moonboard? Did I manage to ride that heel a bit further and find that position (overlaps with being curious no?)? Did I practice my Spanish at all - yes this still makes my day a good day even if it has nothing to do directly with my climbing. Did I support my climbing partner to the best of my abilities?
Being Uncomfortable; this is a big one for me and it incorporates so much. How much can I practice being uncomfortable? Am I willing to project that V3 all session while everyone else is projecting V7s. Yes this is about being uncomfortable. Am I willing to try a new exercise even though I know I’ll be using the 1kg weights or even worse have to subtract from bodyweight. Am I OK with other people watching me struggle, fail or try really hard? How hard can I try - am I really trying, like vein popping out my head, beetroot face or am I pretending to try?
How do you deal with the psychological aspect of mood swings and hormone changes during your cycle?
This is a good question and understanding and managing the psychological impact of mood swings and hormonal changes during my cycle has been crucial for me. Although I don't experience significant mood swings myself, I often see other women become extremely anxious at certain points in their cycle. It can be amazing to witness how someone who was confident and capable one day can feel overwhelmed by fear the next, even on routes well within their abilities. The common refrain from well-meaning partners—"You did it yesterday" or "It's not scary"—often misses the mark.
For me, the key lies in knowing what to expect during each phase of my cycle. I’ve spent enough time climbing to understand that feeling scared or uncoordinated for a day or two is normal and temporary. When climbing outdoors, I might plan to take a double rest day or focus on mileage on familiar routes to protect my mindset. Alternatively, I might set small, achievable goals, such as refining a particular move or improving my technique on a specific section.
During training phases, I focus a lot on acceptance. I understand that certain phases will be more challenging, with more discomfort and frustration, basically a sufferfest. I try to accept this because I am in it for the long game. Training during these times allows me to practice dealing with discomfort, whether it’s physical pain, probably having to drop weight, or the inability to complete moves that were easy the day before. This approach helps me cultivate curiosity and resilience.
Now going through perimenopause, I’m concerned about losing my power phase, which is when I achieve about 90% of my sends. This transition is something I am laying the groundwork for now. By tracking my progress and knowing that I can send outside of this phase, I remind myself that my love for climbing isn't solely about sending. Climbing for me is about the movement, the effort, the problem-solving, and mostly the question as to whether I can do something or not. These elements remain, regardless of whether I’m in my power phase or not.
Additional Activities
Do you participate in any cross-training or complementary activities?
I actually love running and I know running probably doesn’t really help my climbing. Running has always been my escape. It’s something I do to explore, to catch up with friends, to have a mental break. Running is my ‘me time’. There is no judgment. No performance. It is simply exercise for enjoyment or suffering.
How do you balance training with other aspects of your life (e.g., work, family)?
To be honest I have totally engineered out these issues. I work for myself online and can therefore choose my work hours. Not having kids makes life pretty easy. Having a partner just as psyched and committed as me means climbing is the only option!
Advice and Insights
What advice would you give to someone looking to improve their training routine?
Think of training as practice rather than performance - that is if you are actually using it as a tool to improve your outdoor rock climbing. Raw strength and power is not the only thing to train. The amount of insanely strong people we see at the crag who simply can’t rock climb or be seen to fail is kind of outrageous.
Are there any resources or tools you find particularly helpful for your training?
Sequence and Doug.
Extras
Have you read/listened/watched anything recently that you think others would enjoy?
I love the Sport Psych Show for podcasts about mental training, The Imperfects Podcast for just general life experiences, The Real Science of Sport Podcast for just sport stuff in general and anything out of the Climb strong Team for climbing specific stuff.
Who’s training schedule would you like to hear more about?
Any 40+ women out there who are still trying to improve in any sport.
Follow Kerrin Gale on Instagram and be sure to check out Mind Control Counselling.