Weekly Training Plan for Casual Boulders

This weekly plan is designed to help casual boulders that are interested in taking the next step to improving. It is applicable for boulders who already boulder twice a week. If you implement this slight adjustment to your weekly scheduled and stick to it for multiple weeks you won’t look back. Having observed countless casual boulders over the years, this is without doubt in my mind some of the simplest adjustments casual boulders can take to level up.

Weekly Training Plan Overview

This isn’t a ground breaking plan. It is an extension of the regular “two days a week bouldering”.

1 dedicated strength and power session
2/3 boulders sessions that have intent
1 dedicated endurance session
1 dedicated flexibility and mobility session
2 focused recovery sessions

The key takeaways from this weekly plan are to approach each bouldering session with clear intent, increase the volume of your bouldering (2 days to 3 days), incorporate a dedicated strength and power session, and allocate time to focus on flexibility and mobility.

Monday

Rest Day
Focus: Recovery
Activity: Light stretching or yoga to enhance flexibility.

Tuesday

Bouldering Session
Focus: Enjoy bouldering as usual.
Tips: Try to incorporate specific drills (e.g., footwork drills, working on challenging problems).

Wednesday

Strength and Power Training
Focus: Building power and upper body strength.
Exercises:
- Pull-ups: 3 sets of 5-8 reps with weight added.
- Dead Hangs: 6 sets of 10 seconds. 20mm edge. Add weight. Rest 2 minutes between sets.
- Campus Board Training (if available): 4 sets of ladder drills (1-3-5-7-9). Rest 2 minutes between sets.
- Bar Leg Raises: 3 sets of 10 reps. Rest 2 minutes between sets.
- Clapping Pushups: 3 sets. Stop reps when speed decreases. Rest 2 minutes between sets.
- Copenhagen planks: 3 sets of 10-30 seconds holds. Rest 2 minutes between sets.

Thursday

Bouldering Session
Focus: Continue regular bouldering.
Tips: Work on specific problems that challenge your technique and power.

Friday

Endurance + Flexibility and Mobility
Focus: Improve endurance, overall fitness and enhance flexibility to help prevent injury.
Activities:
- Jogging or Cycling: 20-30 minutes at a steady pace.
- Dynamic Stretching: 10-15 minutes.
- Foam Rolling: 10-15 minutes.

Saturday/Sunday

Bouldering Session or Active Rest
Option 1: Bouldering Session - Focus on having fun and tackling new problems.
Option 2: Active Rest - Light activities like hiking, walking, or light climbing.
Note: Don't boulder two days in a row.

Tips for Success

Consistency: Stick to the plan to see gradual improvements.
Listen to Your Body: Adjust the plan if you feel overly fatigued.There is nothing wrong with another rest day.
Stay Hydrated and Eat Well: Proper nutrition and hydration are key to performance and recovery.

If the above feels overwhelming, start by just changing once aspect of your week and slowly incorporate more over time.

Enjoy.