George Eddy’s Current Training Schedule: Behind the Scenes
George Eddy:
General Training Routine
Can you describe a typical week of training for you?
Lately my weekly training consists of:
- 3x fingerboard/campus board sessions a week (1hr)
- 2x Power endurance sessions
- 1x Capillary session
- 2-3x crag days (1x Project day and 2x lower limit days)
How many days a week do you train?
2-3 days a week depending on how my body is feeling.
How do you structure your training sessions throughout the week?
Fingerboard/campus board on my lunch breaks at work and in the afternoons. 2x evening sessions on work days.
On days off I climb outside, or have a rest day.
What are your primary goals for your training block?
My current primary goals are finger strength and working on my weaknesses, power endurance/endurance.
Specific Workouts
What types of exercises or workouts do you include in your training?
- Fingerboarding would be:
- Assisted one arm hang with an exercise band to warm up. Working towards no assistance.
- Isolating middle two on the campus board And hangboard
- Mono hangs assisted one arm
- Capillarisation for fitness
- 4x4s for power endurance
Do you focus on different aspects (e.g., strength, endurance, technique) on different days?
I won't do anything strength related after climbing three days in a row. It really depends on how my weekend of climbing went/is looking.
All my sessions are structured towards a particular goal.
How do you warm up before your training sessions?
Warm up my fingers on the hang board, 10 minutes climbing on the low angle wall while focussing on technique and breathing. And then some easy boulders. Warming up specific body parts that are getting targeted by my current projects outside.
What cool-down routines do you follow after your workouts?
If i get a chance to cool-down it would be 5-10 minutes on the low angle wall.
Do you have goals for your training workouts?
My current goal is to be able to do a one arm mono pull up on the Beastmaker 2000 pocket. And to be able to campus 1,5,7 on monos.
Time Management
How long does each training session typically last?
- Hangboard - 1hr max
- Power endurance sessions can take longer - up to 2 hours
Do you have a specific time of day when you prefer to train?
Whenever I get a chance. Lunch breaks, afternoons, morning before the crag.
Variation and Progression
How do you ensure variety in your training to avoid plateaus and do you track your progress and make adjustments to your training routine?
I feel like it’s hard to plateau when you’re always working on your weaknesses, and climbing outside on routes that push me.
Normally just writing it down what i've done each session or sending videos to friends. #gardenclubtraining.
If I feel I need to adjustments to my training I ask my coach Ben Cossey for advice.
I have a deload week if i’ve been training consistently for 3 weeks. And I normally train specific goals for routes that I'm psyched on.
Recovery and Rest
How do you incorporate rest and recovery into your weekly schedule and do you have any specific recovery techniques or routines you follow?
I have a least one day off a week, doing nothing physically or mentally straining.
Getting lots of blood flow into my body is a key recovery strategy for me.
Nutrition and Hydration
How do you manage your nutrition and hydration around your training sessions?
Lots of protein, magnesium, and vitamin C.
I drink plenty of water throughout the day (2-3L), even on cold days.
Do you follow a specific diet or nutritional plan to support your training?
I intuitively eat based on what my body tells me it needs.
Challenges and Adaptations
What challenges have you faced in your training, and how have you overcome them?
Power endurance didn’t come naturally so I remedied that with being consistent, and trusting my program.
How do you adapt your training routine when faced with injuries or other setbacks?
I still always train even when I'm injured. I just try to train without pain. That’s been key in my recovery with any injury.
Mental and Emotional Aspects
How do you stay motivated and mentally focused throughout the week?
Going to the gym keeps me motivated and focussed on my goals.
Do you incorporate any mental training or mindfulness practices into your routine?
Nah.
Additional Activities
Do you participate in any cross-training or complementary activities?
All my time goes into climbing training.
How do you balance training with other aspects of your life (e.g., work, family)?
Fortunately I have a very supportive group of friends and family that understand my passion. My brother Keith is also a climbing, and he’s keeping me on my toes and motivated. He’s way more naturally talented which pushes me to try harder. And my girlfriend, Talia, gives me many belays on my projects, and gets lots of photos/videos for me.
Advice and Insights
What advice would you give to someone looking to improve their training routine?
Identify your weaknesses. Be consistent with your training. Having self-belief in your ability to get stronger.
Are there any resources or tools you find particularly helpful for your training?
My greatest resource is surrounding myself with people that are better than me and always learning from others. A campus board is pretty cool.
Extras
Have you read/listened/watched anything recently that you think others would enjoy?
Dai Koyamada’s ascent of Action Directe - all time best!
Who’s training schedule would you like to hear more about?
I want to know what Jorge Diazrullo is doing… or eating.
Follow George Eddy on Instagram.