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3 Reasons Why Spray Boards Are Still The Best Training Tool

Jake Bresnehan
Jake Bresnehan
Cover Image for 3 Reasons Why Spray Boards Are Still The Best Training Tool

This post is about the benefits of using a spray board instead of community boards such as a Moonboard, Kilter Board, Tension Board, Grasshopper, etc.

If you are a passionate climber who is always looking at ways to get the most out of your training you'll enjoy the reasons outlined below.

By the time you finish reading, you'll have a good understanding of why spray boards are exceptional training tools and should be one of the main ingredients in anyones training week.

Having obsessed about climbing training for over 20 years the spray board is without doubt one of, if not the best training tool climbers have. If I have a choice, I always pick a spray wall.

Reason #1 - Spray boards demand more skill

As climbing is a skill based sport we always want to be working on this aspect as much as possible.

Having the ability to fully customize a wall with any holds makes the spray board superior.

Climbing demands a large array of techniques and the more you can replicate this in your training the better you'll be equipped to handle those situations when you are performing.

Reason #2 - It forces creativity and mindfulness

Being able to work on your ability to seek out the optimal sequences and push your mind in every session is a massively overlooked positive when training on the spray board.

Sure holds that light up and "show you the way" are handy, especially for a tired mind but using your brain to create and unlock sequences is extremely important.

This skill is used every time you perform, be it in the gym, during competitions or on the rock. It can be the difference between being a ok climber and a great climber.

Reason #3 - Can be modified at anytime to suit your goals

They are not as precious.

If you are lucky enough to have access to a home or dedicated gym spray wall you can reset/tweak/add extra holds to suit your current goals.

With a community board you are bound to the company either releasing more sets/holds and then you need the cash to buy them.

One great example is, say you are heading to Fontainebleau and you are keen to work on your sloper strength. If you have invested in any of the community boards on the market at present, dedicated sloper training is going to be a tough ask...

Yes, this does depend on having the right holds but that is the big advantage. You or your local gym have the flexibility to create new holds, buy some new specific ones and modify the wall at anytime.


Community boards are without doubt super fun, provide direction and are slightly addictive. They should be part of anyone's training structure, unfortunately they still aren't as good as a dedicated spray board.

If you have a choice to have a training session on a community board or spray wall, consider the above reasons. You won't look back.

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